Context before reading this masterpiece

Andre Leon Talley Book Review

Poetic and beautifully written, you can truly hear André Leon Talleys voice whilst reading his new memoir André Leon Talley The Chiffon Trenches. If however you are not familiar with Andre Leon Talley’s work and his impact on the industry over the decades, here are a few visuals I recommend you watch prior to reading his book. Whilst André has a true knack for fleshing out stories throughout his life, for a fashion novice this memoir could become overwhelming. Having watched and read reviews (one can be found in this article by Luke Meagher) of his book I knew I would want to read this book at a minimum twice, once for flow and enjoyment and the second to research people he references for further clarity and to get a better idea of their style, background etc.

The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir is a reflective piece that can act as a teachable moment for everyone, especially black and other POC navigating an unforgivable and challenging industry. Buying this book would be a way to give him his flowers and show a little appreciation for his life’s work. About The Chiffon Trenches. NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER. From the pages of Vogue to the runways of Paris, this “captivating” (Time) memoir by a legendary style icon captures the fashion world from the inside out, in its most glamorous and most cutthroat moments. “The Chiffon Trenches honestly and candidly captures fifty sublime years of fashion.”—Manolo Blahnik. The Chiffon Trenches offers a candid look at the who’s who of the last fifty years of fashion.

I would recommend watching the documentary Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel FIRST as it was Ms. Vreeland who was a key force in André’s development and the first major player in the fashion industry to give him a chance to shine at a young age.

The Gospel according to André

Chiffon Trenches Book

After having watched the Vreeland doc, I would then recommend watching the documentary by André The Gospel According to André prior to reading the André Leon Talley The Chiffon Trenches. The documentary brings a visual eliminate to some of the experiences and stories that he makes reference to in this book. From his home town to his rise through the ranks and key Vogue shoots this visual would add context and an enrichment to your reading experience. It is also a great way to hear at length his speech pattern and the eloquent way in which he tells his stories.

Andre Leon Talley The Chiffon Trenches

Editor’s Notes: What to expect

• Karl Lagerfeld friendship and insight which particularly important as Karl was not into documenting his achievements or reflection in general, hence very interviews of him.
• Andy Warhol and the various happenings at Studio 54.
• Alexander McQueen team.
• Celebrity affiliations and friendships that you would never have guessed André.
• Edward Enninful’s appointment at British Vogue.
• Peeling back the layers of Anna Wintour’s character. He covers how his relationship with her has evolved over the years and her climb to the top completely from his perspective thus not full of hearsay and salacious gossip for the sake of sales.
• Prominence of other publications prior to Vogue’s domination – fascinating for me as a millennial / 90’s baby.
• Juicy best dressed list for men and women.
• Key editions of Vogue and other publication that resonated with him the most as a black man.
• His style evolution throughout the years, love life and personal struggles.

Final thoughts …

A true fashion historian and yet another black trailblazer in yet an industry that is less that forgiving. His references are from personal experiences and like the class act we all know him to be he does not lean on gossip to provide a richer experience for readers. André was alone, at the epicentre of the fashion machine for around 5 decades.

The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir is a reflective piece that can act as a teachable moment for everyone, especially black and other POC navigating an unforgivable and challenging industry. Buying this book would be a way to give him his flowers and show a little appreciation for his life’s work.

Thank you André!

xo

Fashion journalist André Leon Talley’s autobiography could not be more prescient, and not just for fashion followers. Written before the pandemic and recent protest movements, the four and a half page introduction validates the concerns and issues which are playing out on the streets of the world:

“For so long I was the only person of color in the upper echelons of fashion journalism,but I was too busy pushing forward, making it to the next day, to really think about the responsibility that came with this role. Memories linger in the mind … Now I realize it is my duty to tell the story of how a black man survived and thrived in the chiffon trenches ... None of my contemporaries have seen the world through black eyes.”

Raised by his grandmother in Durham, North Carolina, he found his calling at an early age, but did not know what to do with it. Armed with family advice to keep moving, and the wisdom of a grandmother who, “ … instilled in me the values of family, love and tradition,” and a strong work ethic, the young man went on to earn a B.A. and M.A. in French Literature, making him one of the best educated fashion journalists. Sooner than he expected or dreamed, Talley was in the rarified world of haute couture. His expertise and knowledge can be found in books about major fashion designers, such as Valentino and Oscar de la Renta; check under his name. In a recent documentary, 7 Days Out With Karl Lagerfeld, Lagerfeld quipped, “I am working class,” [a little laugh] and, “I am working with class.” The same could be said about Mr. Talley.

In the world of modern fashion, this man has been on the scene for over 40 years, and brings a passionate and appreciative love of that world. A memoir told by way of an in-depth look at fashion, Talley shines a spotlight on some fascinating characters. Eschewing pettiness, but not hesitating to mete out justice and understanding to a few meanies, such John Fairchild, of WWD, aka, Women’s Wear Daily, he brings a fair-minded analysis to what motivated Fairchild. There is a look back at the Parisian cross-town rivalry of two major designers: Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld. There are many other people whose paths he crossed, so fasten your seatbelts, clutch your Manolos, for this reflective, analysis of André Leon Talley’s life and the world that he loves. He is as compelling on paper, as when lecturing or being interviewed. Check YouTube.

For those who think fashion is frivolous, do remember that billions of dollars are involved because all of us have to wear something. There are the major designers, retail spin-offs and hundreds of supportive jobs. As with other big businesses, there are just as many people who are underhanded, devious, driven by money, ego and a will to power. Likewise, it is a world where being highly qualified does not guarantee acceptance, but may generate jealousy which gives rise to rejection.

For fashionistas, who think they know who’s who and what’s what, perhaps take out a notepad or device. It is between you and this memoir, because I’m not giving a test to see if you know who these people, and quite a few others, are: Diana Vreeland, Anna Wintour, Isabella Blow, Anna Piaggi, Susie Menkes, Carrie Donavan, Bill Cunningham, Grace Coddington, Mario Testino, Patrick Kinmonth, Arthur Elgort, Lesage, Tonne Goodman, Grace Mirabella, Polly Mellon. LAPL has books about, or by all of them.

Available on e-books and e-audio.